Arenal to Managua

After another great night’s sleep I woke early and got the car organized for the next few weeks of travel.  Darrylle and I had breakfast with Elkin a friend of Bill, Jeff and Darrylle.  Elkin is from a local indian family near Arenal.  After breakfast Elkin offered to show me the lake.  We walked a short trail down to the lake and them we swam for about a half an hour.  It was a great way to start the morning.

Darrylle and I made our goal of leaving at 10 am saying goodbye to Bill and Jeff.  They are such great guys.  Everyone is surprised when they learn that Jeff and Bill have sold the Villa DeCary.  But the arrangement is for them to stay around for a while.  I hope I’m back in these parts soon and will see them again.

On our drive north we stopped at David and Susan’s again so Darrylle could see Susan.  I toured the amazing gardens and played with the camera.  We drove around the north end of Lake Arenal and I dropped Darrylle in Cañas.  The timing couldn’t have been better.  We pulled into a gas station across from the bus stop.  Darrylle quickly crossed the street and I have to assume it was the correct bus because when it pulled away Darrylle was no where to be seen.  I’m hoping to see Darrylle (and William) in Vera Cruz, Mexico in just over a week.

After filling up the car I started north on the Panamerican. It was about 12 noon.  I made it to the hotel in Managua at 6:30 pm.

The border crossing was a completely different experience.  I waved off the “helpers” and said a couple times  “I’m doing it myself” however I did received assistance from a couple of very nice women.  One sold the insurance that everyone is required to purchase when entering Nicaragua with a car.  She directed me where to go and in what order.  A couple of girls who worked in another section where I had to pay $5.00 kept a look out for me to make sure I was always heading in the right direction.  The border crossing cost me a total of $24.

I drove north on the Panamerican and then turned off to head towards Masaya so I could go to the artisan market in Masaya.  I had originally thought I would spend the night in Masaya but I was able to do my shopping and make it to the outskirts of Managua before nightfall.

Just outside of Masaya I was pulled over by the police at the same spot where I was detained before.  It is a very confusing intersection.  I made a quick lane change essentially cutting off the driver behind me.  That is nothing unusual here but I did it in front of the police.  I assume they are a constant presence at the intersection because it provides a never ending source of rule breaking.

I basically plead confusion to the police officer.  I told him there were no signs and that I was totally confused which direction to go.  He also questioned my fake license.  It’s getting a little worn and this is the first time it’s been questioned.  I hope it gets me to the states.  Eventually he told me I’d have to pay a fine. I asked how much and he said the equivalent of $20.  I expressed shock at the number and he quickly reduced it to $10 which I gladly paid.  We had a nice chat about my drive and where I’d been in Nicaragua.

I’m staying at the Best Western across from the airport in Managua.  It’s the third time I’ve stayed here.  It’s a little more than I like to pay, but I know it has internet, secure parking and has me aimed in the right direction for the morning.

Tomorrow I will head to Honduras. I hope to leave early and see how far I can get.  Depending on how the borders go I would be pleased to make it to El Salvador and not have to spend a night in Honduras.

Nueva Arenal

Written Saturday 7/19/08. The morning appointment at the Toyota shop on Thursday ended up taking most of the day. I left the shop around 2:30 and everything checked out great. The horn and air conditioning now work. The muffler has been reattached, again. The steering rods had a little minor replacement and are now all working fine.

I went next door to the Firestone shop to have the leaky tire checked. After talking with the guy he recommended I go to one of the service centers (gas stations) on the main highway that have a tire repair shop attached. The first two service centers had a very long wait. The third welcomed me right in and turned out to have a long wait. He was actually working on three projects all at once when he took my tire project on as well. Eventually he discovered a small piece of metal stuck in the tire, took it out, repaired the tire from the inside and put the wheel back on the car.

I made it to Darrylle’s before nightfall. William went skating and Darrylle and I went to my favorite asian restaurant, Tin Jo, again. I had a great night’s sleep. We got up and William accompanied me to a very new and modern shop that works on Chevrolets. My “check engine” light had been on since just after Lima, but I was certain I new what it was. They scanned the engine with the computer and it was indeed the catylitic converter sending off the sensor. I had already had the catylitic converter removed (in Costa Rica last September) and so he only needed to reset the computer and the light was off. William and I also had the car washed inside and out at a professional “auto lavado”.

We made it out of San Jose around 1:30 and headed north towards Arenal. We stopped at a restaurant near the airport and had a very nice lunch, if not expensive. William had some banking issues that he needed to take care of and wasn’t satisfied with the results over the phone. So we left William in a small town about half way to Arenal and he caught a bus back to San Jose. Darrylle and I pushed on and arrived at the Villa DeCary about 6:30 pm.

The Villa DeCary (www.villadecary.com) is owned by Jeff Crandall and Bill Hemmer who have been together for over 40 years and have lived in Costa Rica for 14. They developed the whole property which had originally been planted with coffee. There is a main four bedroom B&B house, three chalets and their house above it all. The views of Lake Arenal are fantastic. The symphony of noises, bugs, frogs, birds, howler monkeys is unbelievable. Right now there is a torrential downpour with thunder rolling in the background. We are fairly close to the volcano but I’m pretty certain it is just thunder though they have heard the volcano here in the past.

The same unusual sound of clanking hollowed out wood blocks that I heard in Gaupiles and now I remember from a small surfing town in South West Costa Rica last fall is part of the clamor of small wildlife here. Jeff and Bill explained they are frogs.

We had an excellent meal last night at Gingerbread, the next door neighbor. The restaurant is owned by an Isreali and the food is a mix of local, European and Middle Eastern. It is served family style. The portions are so large we only ordered one main course for the four of us.

The temperature is perfect. Sleeping soundly was easy in this humid relaxing air with nature’s musicians serenading the night away.

After breakfast Darrylle and I drove into Nueva Arenal. Lake Arenal is man made and the original town of Arenal is covered by water hence “New” Arenal. Darrylle’s connections run deep, apparently not just here but all over the country, having created friendships with past clients through the years. Darrylle has been in Costa Rica for 14 years. David and Susan Butterfield have been here in Arenal for over 17.

When Darrylle and I dropped by to see David and Susan they had guests visiting from the US. Susan wasn’t there as she is returning this evening from visiting her family in Bend, Oregon. David is obviously a result of the 60′s. Their house is fashioned into an old barn and consists of a very large greatroom (plus some bedrooms which I never saw) with walls of books and the kind of clutter that exists around an active mind.

When Darrylle and I arrived we interruped a minor disaster. The three had been relaxing with a little herb and had lost the method of delivery. There was a little confusion as we all searched for the hand rolled device and were relieved when it was discovered, having inocently fallen into a pocket. More relaxation and great conversation ensued.

A few more friends arrived who actually live right near Jeff and Bill. It is a very small community who all seem to know each other. I listened to the gossip of family fueds, competing fencelines of cannine competition, people’s comings and goings.

Darrylle and I left for lunch and headed into Nueva Arenal proper. We had a great meal at a small cafe in town. Then we drove back to Jeff and Bill’s and walked over to their friend Alan’s. We had seen Alan at dinner last night and he had had breakfast with us here at the B&B. He lives above Jeff and Bill but we had to walk down to the highway, a quarter mile down the road and then up his long windy driveway. His house sits high above the highway with an amazing expansive view of the lake. There are five building sites on the property and just below his house is the house of his brother and sister-in-law. Alan was just completing his house and is recuperating at the house after beating lung cancer this last winter and fall. There is no better place to relax and recup.

Tomorrow Darrylle and I will continue driving north along the lake and then swing over towards the Panamericana. I’ll drop Darrylle off in a small town to catch a bus back to San Jose and then I’ll continue on into Nicaragua and north.

It has been such a joy to get to know Darrylle better. I can’t thank him and William enough. They have been so generous and helpful to me. Darrylle is considering considering meeting me in Mexico in a few weeks and exploring the areas around the center of the country. So hope to see him again in Veracruz soon.

Guapiles

Wednesday was a day of frustration.  If the universe was conducting a patience test – I failed.

I had told Berny that I would get to his office in Limon about 10 am.  In anticipation of a slow process and the need to get it started early I took the 7:30 am bus from Puerto Viejo and arrived at his office at 9 am.  I drove out of Puerto Viejo at 5:15 pm.

The first order of business was to find the new bill of lading.  We finally had it in hand about 11 am.  Then Berny’s assistant had to take it, all my documents (title, license, passport) somewhere – I’m not sure where but I think to get a new insurance document. He was back and rushing to the port, with me in tow at 11:45.

In the meantime I had been asking Berny about all the additional charges.  On Friday before the discovery of the mistake on the b/l I was told I needed to pay Berny $250.  It was my understanding that was the total fee for the port, customs and for Berny.  The discover of the mistake was at the last step.  If there had been no mistake I would have paid Berny and driven the car off the lot.

On Monday he informed me that the there was an additional $85 needed for the company that took the car out of the container because the container was not going to San Jose. Why there was ever any thought of it going to San Jose and why that should cost me $85 was never explained.  I was also informed that there were additional charges for Hapag Lloyd totaling $233.  I had been told there may be additional charges for Hapag Lloyd in Limon when I shipped the car in Guayaquil.  But on Friday there had been no charges.  In questioning Hapag Lloyd the only answer I was given was that my representative, Miguel, had been out of the office.

Berny also casually mentioned to me that there was an additional $60 to a separate company that is involved with the storage of my car.  That information didn’t arise until around 11:30 am on Wednesday.  As I had specifically asked Berny and Hapag Lloyd to email me a full accounting of the costs on Monday and received that email on Tuesday I was at a loss as to why new charges kept popping up.

Miguel, my representative at Hapag Lloyd, who is the only person that really ever tried to answer my questions and let me know what was going on, had explained that the costs were detailed on the b/l.  When I got the new b/l that was certainly the case.  Hapag Lloyd in San Jose had shown the total amount billed in Guayaquil, what was paid there and what was owing Hapag Lloyd in Limon.  What really confused me was that was never on the original b/l and the numbers are not even correct.  The dollar figures reported on the new b/l were  about $800 less than I had actually paid Hapag Lloyd in Guayaquil.

At this point I’d lost my patience.  I informed Berny that I wasn’t paying the $60 – I said I didn’t have it.  He said he’d pay it.  This is also when his assistant had arrived at the office and urgently needed me to follow him to the customs office. It was 11:45 am.  The customs office is about two blocks from Berny’s office and we arrived by 11:50.  Customs wasn’t going to start any new work as they were heading off to lunch.  We were put on hold until 1 pm.

I tried to cool off with a very spicy stir fry at a Chinese restaurant.  There are a lot of Chinese restaurants in Limon.  Passing a very large cemetery (which is on the way to the lot where the car was stored so I saw it a lot) I noticed that there was a large section of the cemetery walled offed with a large sign that says “Colonia China”. I was informed they have a custom of leaving food on the graves.

At 1 pm I met Mario, Berny’s assistant, back at the customs office.  We waited for the customs guy and by 2 pm we were on the way to my car for him to inspect it.  This was the second inspection and again he really seemed most interested in checking the VIN number.  I did have to open the back and the lockbox, but he didn’t look very far.  We headed back to the customs office for him to sign off on my temporary permit.

Fortunately I have a very long book to read.  I have to remember to always have a book in frustrating situations. It helps keep the mind off the situation at hand which is especially helpful when you have no control.  I’m reading Ayn Rand’s Atlas Shrugged, all 1000+ pages of it and managed to pass the halfway point through all my dead time Wednesday.

The clock kept ticking and after 45 minutes of nothing happening I finally asked Mario what’s going on.  He tried to explain something to me and ended with let’s go see Berny.  So back to Berny’s office we went.  Supposedly the Costa Rican Customs computer system (I think called TICA) was not accepting the new VIN number.  Berny had been on the phone with their computer person who was struggling to get the number changed in the system.  Finally they had success and Berny gave me a piece of paper with a number on it to take to customs.

I found Mario at customs and gave him the paper. He gave it to the customs guy who of course set it aside and continued with other work. A half hour later he informed us that the VIN number is correct but that the weight of the car was now incorrect.  Back to Berny’s. He had to call again and struggle to get the weight changed.  I went back to customs to sit and read.

About 4:30 pm I was getting worried that they’d be closing customs and I’d be waiting another night.  I approached Mario and he said wait just a few minutes, they were preparing the paperwork.  I had the permit in hand by 4:45.  Back to Berny’s to collect my luggage and catch a cab to the lot.

I was in my car driving away from Limon at 5:45 pm.  My Ipod had lost all battery power and through a fluke of my stereo system I could only listen to music in alphabetical order. My only choice was Abba, at least it was happy music.

I broke my cardinal rule of not driving in the dark.  But I had to get as far away from Limon as possible.  Roberto had invited me to stay at his place in Guapiles.  I actually made great time.  I had been told it would be a two hour drive and I made it in less than one and a half.  Roberto and I had a great meal in a large restaurant that occupied an old lumber yard.  I had steak and he had tilapia, a whole huge fish that looked frightening but I think he enjoyed it.

Roberto works for Del Monte and lives in a company compound.  This is his weekday house.  He and Jose Miguel live in a very nice house he designed in San Jose.  The Del Monte compound has about 10 houses, a central club house, a common pool and restaurant.  The houses are all from the same era (late 60′s early 70′s) and are really quite comfortable.  The night air in Guapiles was very refreshing and I slept well with the symphony of bugs serenading me.  There is one sound here I’ve never heard before. It sounds like wood blocks (hollowed to create a specific tone) rhythmically clanking together. It really sounded like it belonged in some band or orchestra. I’m very curious to see what creature makes that sound.

This morning Roberto called a Toyota shop and that’s where I am now.  I want to have the ends (still don’t know what they are called) of the steering mechanism checked as they were replaced roadside in Peru.  The muffler has come loose again and the horn and a/c aren’t working.  I’m really hoping the horn and a/c are related and a simple electrical (fuse) issue.  I have a small leak in the rear passenger tire and have to add air every week or so.  Since there is a Firestone shop next door I’ll travel all of 50 feet to have that checked as well.

A big thanks to Roberto for all his help in finding a customs broker, the Toyota shop and sharing his home with me once again.

I expect to be in San Jose at Darrylle’s by nightfall. But if I’ve learned anything on this trip I’ve learned to manage my expectations.

Puerto Viejo

It’s Tuesday the 15th of July and I’m still waiting for the mistakes on the bill of lading to be corrected.  After a pleasant weekend at this sleepy beach town I got up Monday, packed my bags and got ready to catch a bus back to Limon to get the car.  I called Verny, my customs broker, to verify all was on track and was not surprised to learn it was not.

Verny had talked with someone at Hapag Lloyd (not my representative, Miguel) and had been told that the old, incorrect bill of lading had to be delivered to San Jose before they could issue a new one.  The conversation on Friday had never included this piece of information otherwise I would have sent the old b/l to San Jose.  I called Miguel and he advised me to send him an email explaining the situation and authorizing them to issue a new b/l. I was also to destroy the old one. And that he would send the new one to Limon.

According to Miguel the schedule would be to issue the new b/l Monday and put it on the courier’s route on Tuesday leaving San Jose at 10 am. It would arrive in Limon around 4 pm Tuesday too late to get anything done with customs.  So I planned on arriving in Limon early Wednesday to collect the car by 12 noon.

Later Monday I had an urgent email from Verny to call.  He had again been talking with someone other than Miguel and was told I still owe Hapag Lloyd a couple hundred dollars.  I called Miguel and he informed me that indeed I did still owe them the Limon port costs.  Curiously if there had been no mistake on the b/l I would have left Limon Friday without ever paying those additional charges.

Writing this it appears simple. The actual process took two phone cards (I had to walk into town to buy more cards) and innumerable phone calls between Verny, Miguel and me. For some reason Verny never seemed to connect with Miguel and always received different information from the person he liked to talk with at Hapag Lloyd.

Today (Tuesday) I’m waiting for an accounting from Miguel and Verny of the exact costs involved in getting my car and I’ll hopefully receive confirmation that the b/l arrived in Limon.  Either way I’ll head back to Limon early tomorrow morning.  Four days at the beach are likely enough at this point.

I really like Puerto Viejo.  This is my first time on the east coast of Costa Rica.  At least this area does not appear as developed as the west coast.  There are no high rise condo buildings.  The commercial strip is mostly typical tropical construction of shellacked wood and thatched roofs.  There are a few more substantial buildings but nothing over two stories.

I’m staying at the Lizard King Hotel.  It’s $28 a night for a single and is very comfortable.  I don’t have air conditioning, but I really don’t need it. I do have a couple fans, private bath spacious room and wifi.

The restaurants in Puerto Viejo are fantastic.  Last night I ate a El Loco Natural which according to their menu was named one of the top five eats in Costa Rica in the Lonely Planet 2007.  I would agree.  The night before I ate at Chile Rojo a mix of Thai, Middle Eastern and local cuisine. My first night I had sushi at the hotel/restaurant next door.  All the meals have been fantastic.  The over riding theme for the food here is fusion.

I’ve gone to the beach twice in the last three days and weather permitting I expect to go again today.  The main part of town is right alongside the water, but it is rocky and the shoreline literally goes right to the trees.  The open wide beach is about a kilometer and a half east of the main part of town. I have walked each time, once by the jungle path and once by the road.  My first day at the beach was cut short by a rain storm that lasted most of the afternoon.  I walked back in the heavy rain in my swimsuit and arrived as soaked as if I’d jumped in the pool.  Yesterday was a beautiful day at the beach and I finally left the beach as the sun set behind the trees

This is actually a surfing community.  I was surprised that there is decent surfing in the Caribbean.  It is a very good place to learn as the waves are not huge and the grade out to the surf is long.

Limon, Costa Rica

After waiting for my car for a while I’ll have to wait a little bit more. I arrived in Limon, Costa Rica too late last night, Thursday 7/10/08, too late to do anything with customs so I arranged to meet with my customs broker this morning. I was ready and waiting in front of my hotel at 9 am as we had agreed. At 9:20 I called him to ask where he was. He said he’d be a few more minutes. At 10:10 I called again and within 5 minutes he was there. We walked to his office and at 10:30 got started on the process.

I was surprised when he sent me back to the hotel and said to call at 1 pm. I called at 1 and he said come right over. He needed some of my original documents so his partner, Mario, could go to customs. Then I left and was told to come back at 2:30. Finally at 2:30 we went to the lot where the container was being held. Of course the container was not ready waiting for us. We had to wait about a half an hour for it to be brought around. They opened the container and I tried to pull the car out but there were boxes stacked up along the dock so I could only pull the car straight back but didn’t have room to turn or anything. So the car went back in the container and the boxes had to be moved.

We finally got the car off the dock and parked it near the gate. We (me, Mario, another man whose role other than driving was never apparent to me and his 4 year old daughter) all piled back into the car (not mine) and drove to the customs office. We were told it was too late. It was after 4 pm and they stopped starting new paperwork at 4 pm. I told Mario that if Verny (my customs broker) had been ready at 9 am like we had arranged this wouldn’t have happened.

Mario called Verny and after that went over to a woman at the customs office. He had a short discussion with her and she talked with the guy who had said no to us. Now he was willing to do the work. He filled out the paperwork. We ran across town (it’s a small town) to get the insurance and then stopped in at Verny’s office where I was told that in order to get this done the guy doing the work wanted a little “assistance”. I explained again that had the process commenced at the appointed time this problem wouldn’t have happened and I shouldn’t have to pay for that. Verny wasn’t happy and just waved us on. We went back to the customs office.

We collected the customs official (who was working late for me) and took him out to the car. The car was parked at a lot only about 8 kilometers from town, but the traffic made the drive take over 15 minutes. The agent looked over my car and discovered that the VIN number on the bill of lading was incorrect by one letter. Back to the customs office to be told that the car wasn’t going anywhere. Then back to Verny’s office to call Hapag Lloyd to start the process for a new bill of lading which will be generated in San Jose and Fedexed on Monday to Limon. After my refusal to pay for the late work I think Verny took delight in the fact that this had happened to me.

I was surprised when I was told that I would have to pay the $25 fee for a new bill of lading and the shipping costs. I argued those fees away with the Hapag Lloyd representative on the phone explaining that they should have taken the information off the title, which is correct.

Back in the hotel I checked all my correspondence with the Hapag Lloyd office in Guayaquil and remembered what had happened. I was really frustrated with the slow speed with which they were operating so I took it upon myself to email the woman who would generate the bill of lading all the pertinent information even though she should have been taking it off the title. It was indeed my mistake.

I now have an extra weekend on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Tomorrow I’ll get a bus to Puerto Viejo and spend two nights there. Two more beach days will do me well.

The Galapagos

Monday afternoon Candace and I had made plans through a travel agency recommended by the hotel for our Galapagos adventure. Our time was very constrained because I needed to attend to shipping the car before I could leave the city. I had always hoped to get the car packed into the container on Tuesday and head over to the Galapagos on Wednesday. This would give us 3 nights on the islands. Apparently 4 nights is the least that are recommended. Our dates were set (the car shipping and Candace’s plane ticket home) and couldn’t be changed. We were beginning to realize that we were at a disadvantage before we even left for the islands.

Candace left Wednesday while I finished getting my car shipped. She was picked up at the airport on Baltra, a small island north of Isla Santa Cruz. We were later told that the airport had originally been a US air base strategic in its proximity to the Panama Canal. On Isla Santa Cruz Candace went to a turtle farm, hiked a lava bed, walked through lava tubes, went out on a boat (though she didn’t snorkel) and stayed the night in Puerto Ayuro. She saw lots of wildlife including a blue footed boobie.

I arrived at the airport on Baltra on Thursday just afternoon. I elected to get myself to Puerto Ayuro to meet a boat that would take me to Isla Isabela to meet Candace. With no guide to direct me I hung back and followed the path of the locals and back packers taking a local bus south to Puerto Ayuro. When I reached the city (I think the largest in the Galapagos) a guide was waiting with my name on a sign. I was late and the launch for me was just about to leave.

At the last baggage check before heading to Isla Isabela I was discovered to have a banana. I had the choice of eating it quickly or throwing it away. It had been substantially smashed in the flight over but I stuffed it in my mouth nearly still swallowing as I entered the launch.

Both Candace and I were surprised to find each other on the same launch. It was a little after 2 pm and we had both been told we would meet up on Isabela. The boat had a total of 12 people plus the captain and his assistant. There was a cushioned bench around the perimeter. We all exchanged introductions and settled in for what was to be a two hour ride.

It quickly became apparent this would be a long 2 hours. Just outside of the harbor the swells in the sea were about the size of the boat. The swells were flowing in a northwesterly direction and we were traveling due west. The first few times the boat listed either right or left feeling like it would capsize my heart, as well as the banana, lurched into my throat. After about 15 such rolls over the swells my mind became accustomed and I accepted this was normal. My body didn’t become quite so accustomed. When we hit the swells head on the front end of the boat would catch air slamming down hard testing the integrity of the hull.

Being the last person on the boat I was sitting closer towards the captain in the front end of the boat where the slamming and rolling were more pronounced. The very back of the boat was smoother however the fumes of the double engines were very strong. I had always been proud of the fact that I had never had motion sickness. Candace’s guide had given her some motion sickness medication on Thursday so she was protected. A couple at the back of the boat didn’t have that luxury and were soon being sick. I followed suit within the first hour of the trip and the banana, which had always felt like a lump in my throat finally vacated. I moved to the back of the boat and waited out the interminable remainder of the ride.

We arrived on Isla Isabela and were herded to two hotels. When Candace and I bought out trip we were under the impression we would have our own guide for the four days of activities. That had certainly been what Candace had experienced the first two days. But on Isabela a number of different groups (families, individual travelers and a few small tours) came together for the next two nights. We were a little over 20 people all total.

The largest group of people were dropped off at a pleasant looked hotel with hammocks, lush landscaping and a restaurant. We were taken a couple blocks away to a three level structure that on first impression was disappointing. Once seeing our room and especially after our first night Candace and I decided we had one of the best rooms on the island. We had a top floor corner room with wood ceilings and large screened windows. The sea breeze never ceased and created a wonderful natural air conditioning.

The group took a short walk around the town, saw one pink flamingo, walked the beach and ended with the bulk of us at a surf side bar. That ice cold beer was a necessary and welcome treat after the days events. We all ate together at the main hotel and planned to get up early for our morning excursion – horseback riding to a volcano and lava field.

They brook the group in two and we managed to go with the smaller one. When we arrived in the mountains it was lightly raining. Everything was soaked and it was very lush and green. We were each given a horse and I realize this sounds cliche, but I had the oldest saddest looking horse named Ballo. Once were at the top people pointed out the protruding bones on her back hips.

Our walk up on the horses was a bit distressing. It was extremely muddy. Sometimes the horses hoofs would get stuck in the mud. There were numerous ruts from continuous use of the trail, some more than one foot deep. After nearly two hours on the horses we dismounted and hiked into a volcano and lava field. The scenery and terrain were amazing. The clouds generally kept us from seeing the distant volcanoes but occasionally lifted granting a few glimpses. We ate the sandwiches we had made that morning on a ridge overlooking a vast lava flow our towards the sea.

Back on the horses the ride became much worse. Going downhill seemed much trickier in the mud. One of the group decided she’d had enough riding and walked ahead. I thought about changing to her horse and should have. The guides were constantly pushing our horses on yelling “vamos” and slapping the horses rears with their ropes. Occasionally all the horses would move a little faster but never for long. It was very distressing when the horses would bunch up (which was most of the time). A number of the horses had obvious space issues and would nip and bite at each other.

Candace had a strange looking horse that in the end she discovered to be her good friend. Though she was distressed at times, like all of us, her horse protected her and got her up and down safely. My sad old lady didn’t fair so well. Two times her back legs gave out and her rear collapsed into the mud. The second time I jumped off. I ended the ride on the available horse while Ballo happily ran away.

The whole horse back riding experience was sketchy. I’m not experienced in horses at all but it all seemed unsafe in the mud. In fact our guide’s horse fell as well.

We were delivered back to the hotels after 3 pm and told we had 10 minutes to prepare for the snorkeling excursion. Candace and I both elected to end the tour herding and relax that afternoon. Candace had not really recovered from her stomach issues and the boat and horse rides didn’t really help. When we talked with our fellow tourers it was apparent we had made a good decision. There hadn’t been a lot of wildlife to see however they did get to swim with the sea lions.

That night we ate at the same restaurant and prepared to get up at 5:00 am to be at the dock at 6:00 am for the boat ride back to Santa Cruz. Candace’s stomach issues were flaring again and the prospect of another 3 hours on that boat was not encouraging. Gary, from London who is traveling the world for many months, gave Candace an imodium before we left for the boat.

With empty stomachs the boat ride was much more palatable – stomach wise. However it was just as choppy, if not worse as two days before. I still do not think it is a good thing when a boat feels like it is going downhill. We made it to Santa Cruz and were picked up by Jaime who had been Candace’s driver two days before. He took us to a restaurant for breakfast. Then we headed to the Darwin Center to see turtles, including Lonesome George – the last of his species.

We didn’t have much time to get to our flight, or so Jaime felt. So we viewed the Darwin Center very quickly. Candace nursed more nausea which had flared after the boat ride.

At the airport we found an area outside the main holding pen. Candace slept a little as we waited for our flight which was delayed about an hour. She slept more in the plane and in my room waiting for her midnight flight home. I certainly hope the comfort of home will help Candace fight off whatever bug has attacked.

Our Galapagos experience was much different from what we expected. We had limited options because of our limited time frame. Apparently Isabela is a recent development in the tourism of the Galapagos. They have made many obvious recent improvements. I never thought of the Galapagos as a beach resort. But on Isabela we saw private homes (we were told valued at $500,000) some owned by foreigners including from the US. From talking with other travelers the most productive way to see wildlife is on a boat, generally a minimum 4 day cruise followed by a little adventure on Isabela with horses and hiking.

I know for a fact Candace will not travel like this again – she told me so.

Today I fly to San Jose, Costa Rica and will stay with Darrylle and see Wes and Rafael my Spanish teachers from many months before.

Frustration

About 3:30 am Tuesday morning Candace was struck again with sudden nausea.  This time it didn’t pass and an hour and half later culminated in her body self cleaning her digestive system.  Though she felt much better directly after, this was terribly discouraging.  Tuesday Candace stayed in bed half the day and I waited for a call from the customs broker to go to the port to stuff the car into the container.

The day became increasingly frustrating as it became apparent I would not be getting my car into the container that day.  The shipping company and the customs broker were obviously not working in sync.  Finally the customs broker called.  He never intended to take my car to the port on Tuesday even though that was the plan with the shipping company.  He instead wanted to pick me up, take me to the port and conduct all the customs paperwork taking my car to the port on Wednesday.

Candace and I had plane tickets to head out to the Galapagos on Wednesday.  As she was out walking the city when the customs broker picked me up at 3 pm she didn’t find out I wouldn’t be accompanying her to the islands on Wednesday until I returned from the port around 5:30 pm.

Both Candace and I got up early on Wednesday, she to go to the airport and me to drive to the docks.  My broker called before 8:30 am we both bid farewell expecting to see each other sometime on Thursday as I would follow the next day.

The stuffing of the car was much more orderly and professional than in Panama.  The customs brokers took care of all the paperwork with me following, signing wherever they told me.  Finally we had the car in front of the container.  My agent told me to wait and disapeared.  He returned about an hour later and told me it would be another hour and disapeared again.  I watched the dock workers walk back and forth, the giant container movers pushing product around, lunch hour come and go and then it was finally my turn.  Suddenly a narcotics cop arrived and started looking my car over.  He looked into all the cubby holes, but not very in depth.  Then he brought a narcotics sniffing dog who jumped in the car and smelled all over.

It is interesting to note that in Panama there was no checking for drugs.  In Guayaquil the narcotics officer stayed throughout the whole process of putting my car in the container and strapping it down.  He was the one who placed the seals on the container and had me sign off on his paperwork.

Once the car was locked into the container my agent brought me back to the hotel.  It was well after 3 pm Wednesday.  In one especially irritating email Tuesday from the shipping company they had informed me that I could take the car to the port at 8:30 load the car in the container and make it to the airport for the 11:45 am flight to the Galapagos. Instead of giving me useful and fact based information they frequently would advise me the with what they thought I wanted to hear.  That made it very difficult to make secure plans.

I left for the Galagapos Thursday morning on the daily 11:45 am flight.  I was still unsure if the shipping company would get the correct wire transfer information to my father who was now in charge of the last task to ship my car.  I wouldn’t know if my car shipped until I returned from the Galapagos on Saturday.

Mancora to Guayaquil

Scott, Candace and I had planned on leaving Mancora on Saturday the 21st. But sitting around the pool, lulled by the sound of the surf and a couple mojitos we succumbed to the surroundings and after a few quick calls to Guayaquil and consulting the front desk of the Grandmare decided to stay one extra day. Satisfied with our decision and unaware of the possible ramifications we finished our day by the pool, took an afternoon siesta, walked into town and watched a spectacular sunset from the beach. The street vendor shopping was interesting but very difficult in the dark so we headed to a Mexican restaurant we had spied earlier. Later Scott and Candace headed to a surfer bar for a nightcap while I aimed for the comfort of bed.

Saturday was another pleasurable day poolside with a little earlier foray into the city to shop during the daylight. Another amazing sunset and satisfying meal at the same Mexican restaurant ended our day while we planned an early departure to make Guayaquil the next day in time for Scott to make his 6:30 pm flight Sunday afternoon.

Sunday we got off to a little later start than we had hoped. Driving through town we had two different groups of people point at the front of the car and yell something to us. While we were getting gas on the north end of town I walked around the car and couldn’t find anything that would warrant any attention. As we pulled out of the gas station it happened again and two young guys basically flagged us down feet from the station.

It turns our the two rods (I have no idea what they are called) that make up the steering mechanism were loose and even though I could neither see nor feel anything strange in the car they said the wheels were wobbling dramatically while it was moving. In short order they had dismantled the two rods and one of them was running down the highway towards town to have the ends (the parts that had become loose) rebuilt. The whole delay took about 2 hours and we were all feeling the pressure of the time.

When we decided to stay the extra day we hadn’t really considered all the possibilities, especially driving a car. Scott had to catch his 6:30 flight to make a very sensitive meeting Monday morning that would start a week of work. After loading the (now 3) mechanics into the car along with their requisite dirt, grease and grime smashed against Candace in the back seat and driving to a cash machine to withdraw their booty it was 11:30 am when we finally drove away from Mancora. With the hoped for 6 hour drive ahead of us this didn’t leave much leeway to make Scott’s 6:30 flight.

The border crossing into Ecuador is one of my favorites. It is very evident where the actual border is and the offices of each side of the border are just corner offices in the midst of a very bustling urban center. Both times I have crossed this border there were no other cars crossing meaning my car had to play moses (again) and separate the masses going about their daily life in what vaguely resembles a jumbled street fair of disparate citizens streaming through the streets.

The time pressure to get to Guayaquil took the charm away and made the whole experience a nuisance. The fact that the customs office on the Ecuador side was closed on Sunday and that once we got a young customs agent to open it he had to navigate a new computer system didn’t help the situation. We were now terribly late on the road to the airport in Guayaquil.

We arrived at the airport about 6 pm. We left my car parked in the unloading zone (promising to be back in just minutes) and searched out the office of Scott’s airline. The gates had been closed and there was to be no bending. The new task was getting Scott on the next available flight. With a few quick visits to other airlines (it being late on Sunday we were behind the security gate knocking on closed office doors talking to the one person on duty, if anyone was even there), it quickly became apparent Scott’s best option was to get on the internet and book a flight online. So we headed to the hotel in the center of Guayaquil.

Scott had picked wisely when he booked us into the Hampton Inn Boulevard in the heart of the city. We had canceled our Saturday night reservations and now Scott needed to stay on Sunday night. The hotel was very efficiently run and the staff was beyond helpful. Parking my car could have turned into a nightmare but the bellboy that drove around with me to a couple different garages was patient and I ended up with the car just around the corner from the hotel.

Scott quickly found himself a flight. But it wasn’t until Monday afternoon effectively loosing one day of his week and canceling his meetings on Monday morning. After talking with the appropriate parties Scott was a lot less stressed and we all set out to explore the city.

We ate at a restaurant the hotel said was traditional Ecuadorian food. It felt more like a Red Robbin but the setting was great. Guayaquil sits on a large river which is almost like a fjord or firth, it is very wide and keeps widening out to the ocean. Along the waterfront the city has developed its Malecon with wide public spaces, restaurants, kids parks and large plazas built out over the water.

Scott and I each ate arroz con pollo, a safe and common standby. Candace opted for the white fish. About halfway through our meal Candace was gripped with a sudden bout of unexplained nausea. Though she didn’t actually get sick she was left shaken and weak. We all went back to the hotel, put Candace to bed and Scott and I went for a little more exploring of the city. Being a Sunday night after 10 pm the city was all but shut up.

The next day I went to the shipping company office and started the process of shipping the car. Scott and Candace shopped and walked more of the city.

Guayaquil was a pleasant surprise. It is a bustling commercial center with a large port, high rises and lots of well dressed businessmen moving about. The city also has a surprisingly defined sense of architectural style. It has the typical feel of a tropical city and the patina of decay and dirt endemic to most Latin American cities.  The whole center of the city is arcaded. I don’t know if it is a law, but virtually every building, high rise and low rise alike, have wide pedestrian arcades. In a very humid warm climate this creates both shade from the sun and refuge from the rain. Much of the lower parts of the buildings, especially the obvious mid century buildings are finished with fine mosaics. There are many mosaic murals covering large portions of buildings, both municipal and commercial.  The city does not have a colonial feel like many other cities of it’s size instead it appears to have thrived more during the republican period after independence.

Scott left the hotel about 3:30 pm and was off to his work in Lima. Candace and I decided to go out of the center of town to the Urdesa neighborhood and investigate if the Asia de Cuba had any relation to the fabled chain, where Candace’s brother had actually worked in Miami. The ambiance was great but the food (sushi) was barely passable. This was not a part of the chain. Candace and I headed back to the hotel and went to bed feeling content.

Lima to Mancora

Scott arrived early Monday morning and again the hotel did not have a driver at the airport to pick him up.  The three of us spent Monday walking around the artsy neighborhood of Baranco, visiting galleries and a fantastic old mansion that once served as the summer house of a wealthy mining family and is now a museum.  Later we had drinks in a Cuban bar and looked at a number of works by Cuban artists including the owner of the bar.

Scott’s friends Patty and Ricardo met us Monday evening and drove us to a very trendy restaurant in Miraflores.  It was a wonderful meal and great company.  Scott has worked with Patty in the past and may be working more with her in the future.  He will be returning to Lima after our drive to Guayaquil and spend a week consulting with her company.

After a completely satiating meal Scott and I continued the evening in a bar in Miraflores.  Getting home after 1 pm gave us a late start for the drive the next day to Trujillo (my fault because I slept late).

We have experienced the same lack of good information and advice on travel times that I had experienced in the past.  Scott had made arrangements for a hotel in Trujillo just off the main square which made it easy to find.  The drive was much longer than any of us had anticipated and we arrived well after dark.

Our first delay out of Lima was at a tricky intersection that Ricard had warned us about.  We did exactly what he had advised us not to do.  This added about one hour to the drive taking us through neighborhoods we likely would never had attempted.  Scott was a great navigator and using a large map of Lima directed us back to the Panamericana.  Scott and Candace’s first impressions of the vast poverty of Lima were a stark contrast to the wealth of Miraflores.

We were further delayed by what we now assume are the standard practices of the police in the “state” of Lima.  Police stops are actually quite common and usually simply involve a few questions of where we’ve been and where we’re going. The car generally elicits a number of questions as well.  This first stop at the first tollbooth just outside of Lima and quickly became a shake down for money.  The cop walked away with $35 dollars for our supposed speeding.  Less than an hour later we were stopped again. Again we were told we were speeding and he advised us to turn on our emergency flashers because of upcoming fog.  He walked away with $28.

At the third police stop in two hours we were now thinking they were radioing ahead to advise their buddies of the big white Land Cruiser cash cow on the highway.  On the previous stop I had asked to see the evidence I was speeding, he claimed it was clocked on radar.  He was asked if I wanted evidence or wanted to make this easy. We had made it easy.  At this third stop and on Candace’s urging we had a new tactic for this policeman.

We had been driving down a long hill that the cop claimed was a 40 KPH zone (about 25 MPH) and actually pointed to the cars whizzing down the hill claiming they were doing that speed.  As he was very kindly explaining all this trucks and cars whipped past us going about 80 KPH  (50 MPH).  But instead of arguing I simply asked for his information. I wanted to see HIS Identification. He left the car and consulted with the other policeman.  When he came back he was very pleasant and wished us a fine journey.  We never had to employ that tactic again as once we were out of Lima State the police stops were the usual few questions and back on the road.

In Trujillo we settled into the hotel and quickly went in search of a restaurant.  We found a great chicken diner and all enjoyed a meal of tender chicken, french fries and salad.  Scott and Candace explored the city a little more and I headed back to the hotel to get to sleep. We all agreed to an early start the next morning understanding the possibility of delays.

All around this part of Peru there are ruins of ancient pre-Incan cultures.  Because we were so late on arriving to Trujillo we missed ruins that are purported to contain some of the most well preserved and vibrant murals.  Just north of Trujillo is the ancient settlement of Chan Chan.  With our early departure we actually arrived about 15 minutes before the gates opened. The people living there were part of a larger culture that thrived from 100 BC to 1400 AD.  The one palace that the public is allowed to tour is undergoing major archaeological work so we saw the scores of archaeologists calmly uncovering and preserving what remains of these magnificent structures.  It is so close to the coast line we could hear the surf crashing.

We were back on the highway about 10:30 am with what we expected was a nine hour drive ahead of us. This day (Thursday) did not include the delays we suffered the day before.  There was no fog and no scamming policeman so the kilometers seemed to scream by.  But later in the day, as the sun set, the time started to drag.  We just wanted to be at our sea side resort.  Finally around 7 pm we arrived to the Gran Mare, where I had stayed in November on my way south.  It was as refreshing as I remembered.

I had heard of some crime in the city and had inquired at the reception desk.  After being thoroughly briefed on safety, settling into our cabina and relaxing with margaritas we took a moto taxi (motorcycle converted into a three wheel that carries three passengers) the two kilometers into Mancora for dinner.  We had very good food and barely passable wine.  After dinner we walked about a block to one of many surfer bars.  It was the most crowded and so seemed like a safe bet. A few drinks there watching the surfers and debating democratic politics were enough to make us sleepy. We called our designated safe moto driver and arrived back at the hotel.

Scott and I each have our own rooms with big sliding doors so we can sleep listening to the surf which is less than 150 feet from our doors.  Candace choose the upstairs loft open to the elements with the exception of the bamboo roof.  Needless to say we all slept well.

Candace arrives in Lima

Candace arrived late Saturday night. Unfortunately the Mansion San Antonio (A Luxury Bed and Breakfast) isn’t living up to expectations and no one was there with a sign to transfer her to the hotel. She was befriended by some nice missionaries who helped her search for her driver and then arranged a taxi for to get her to the hotel.

The hotel failed us again with the tour that was arranged for Sunday. The hotel manager, Robert, a very affected latin queen served as our tour guide. I’ve never had a tour guide actually fall asleep during the tour. But after we sampled Pisco Sours near the main square of Lima he slept most of the way home. Our driver, who spoke no English gave us more information than Robert. No more need be said.

Later on Sunday Candace and I walked the fashionable, trendy and rich neighborhood of Miraflores. We enjoyed the stunning view from the Laca Mall, carved into the bluffs of Lima overlooking the sea. A quick jaunt through a cheesy art fair in the park in Central Miraflores, sampled another Pisco Sour at a park side restaurant with just a little flavor of Paris and then gorged on a great Italian meal at Mama Lola’s.

Back to the hotel on foot and a great night sleep. Tomorrow Scott arrives and then Wednesday we are off to Trujillo.