La Paz

Friday (March 21st) I drove from Cochabamba to La Paz. The drive went well and there wasn’t much traffic as Friday was a major holiday.  In fact last week was Semana Santa, an important holy holiday week. So Friday driving into La Paz was like driving into a US city on Christmas day.  Normally the streets are packed with taxis, trufis, micros and buses.  Fortunately I didn’t have to battle any of them to find my hotel.

I had called the day before to find a hotel because I wanted to be in the specific area I wanted to rent an apartment, Sopacachi.  Hotel España was well located for my purpose and was only $20 per night.  Friday afternoon I made arrangements to see three apartments the next day and walked around the area that evening.  There are lots of restaurants and nightclubs in Sopacachi but because of the holiday it was very quiet.

Saturday I saw the three apartments and walked by three others.  All were furnished though not to the same degrees.  One didn’t have sheets, towels or kitchen equipment. Of course it was the least expensive but it did have a phenomenal view.  The remaining two were both well equipped however one had only one bedroom and the other two.  The one bedroom was a better location – closer to all the happening activity but the two bedroom had secure parking in the building, 24 hour security and a building manager available to assist and answer questions.  They were priced the same.  I took the two bedroom.  It is a three block walk to my favorite park and all the restaurants. The supermercado is about four blocks and I have yet to find the gym I was told is only two blocks.

I now have a two bedroom apartment through the month of April. My parents will be staying with me the last week in April. If anyone wants to come to La Paz and ride the world’s most dangerous road on a mountain bike or hike through the Valley of the Moon or traipse through pre-Inca ruins you have a place to stay.

I moved in yesterday (Sunday) however I wish I had arranged to move in later in the day. I had planned on meeting the Realtor (yes it turned out the apartment I rented had a Realtor) at 11 am. While I was exploring the neighborhood the night before I had seen a major event being set up in Plaza Aboroa (my favorite park). I assumed it was for Easter Sunday but back at the hotel when I asked I was informed it was the Dia del Mar.  It just so happened the two coincided this year.  I haven’t read the paper today and don’t fully understand but apparently every year on March 23 Bolivia celebrates Dia del Mar.  It goes back to the end of the War of Pacific and a supposed promise that Bolivia would receive access to the sea.  Bolivia had lost all of the land that fronted the Pacific.  It has never been settled and I had happened upon the ceremony for the Dia del Mar.

I got there about 9:45 am and to get to the park I walked through closed off streets with marching bands and different groups of people ready to march to the park.  They were all very well dressed and the mood was very festive.  When I got to the park I had to stop across the street because everything was cordoned off by the military.  I had no idea what to expect and what all the people were waiting for.  It was actually very serious and quiet all around the park.  I don’t think there were many people inside the park, which is a whole city block, other than military personnel.  Most of the people were on the sidewalks surrounding the park.  There were hundreds of soldiers from all branches of the military.  Occasionally a voice of the speakers would announce a branch of the military and they’d spin their guns, march in place and stomp.

Finally a group of what appeared to be senior military officials congregated in the intersection right in front of me.  Then a block away I saw a fast motorcade led by a BMW quickly approaching the intersection.  It was followed by a number of SUVs.  Out of the BMW jumped President Morales. He walked to the dozen military officials in the intersection, shook their hands and then proceeded down the street along the line up of soldiers towards the main entrance to the park. I was surprised that the crowd was not more vocal.  There were a few shouts of “Evo” but generally the mood was quiet and serious.

That was the only action I actually saw.  A few minutes later a voice of the loud speaker started introducing the military, the president and other dignitaries.  The national anthem was played and many of the people in the crowd around me sang along.  A few had their hand over their chest and all the men took off their hats.  Just as President Morales started to speak I checked the time and had to leave to meet the Realtor.  So I missed the rest of the festivities.

I met Cyntia at the hotel and she road with me to the apartment. That was fortunate as many of the streets were impassable due to the events of the day.  We met with the building administrator and they got me situated in my apartment.   Later in the day I went to the supermercado and stocked up on kitchen supplies.

The apartment will be great.  I could actually host a dinner party for six.  I have so missed having a space of my own I cooked myself a spaghetti dinner last night.  The supermercado actually had gluten free pasta. Today I shopped the street markets for other items I needed like a dish drying rack. Try asking for that in Spanish.

Just in case anyone wants to call my cell phone number in Bolivia is 7322 8607 and the number in the apartment is 243 0875. The country code for Bolivia is 59 and the code for La Paz is 2 but I don’t think the 2 is needed to call my cell.